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Plus if anyone reading this doesn't know what HDR is, it stands for "High Dynamic Range" and is usually used to combine differently exposed photographs of a scene to end up with an image capturing a greater range of brightness than the camera can.
Oh and it's a bit of a pain to register (unless you've done one of their tools before) but persevere and you'll get there. Oh and while I am doing a bit of a quick start guide don't forget to check out the manual, especially the stuff on Ghosting removal starting on page 64.
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Note that HDR Projects 4 Pro has a lot of options and you may need to play around a bit to get a natural looking HDR, unless you fancy doing something with a more unnatural look (although some people are not fans of highly processed HDRs others like the effect). If you have Lightroom that also has built-in HDR support.
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exe to the desktop and go from there (although IIRC it just saves the result in a "standard" location rather than offering a choice). Note the Nik tool is a Plugins but you can just (on Windows) drag a link to the HDR Efex 2.
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Another free option used to be HDR Efex 2 which is part of the Nik Tools which were Google and are now DXO, and were available as a free download when they were Google, so might still be around. (Registering if you haven't done it for a Franzis tool before is also an adventure, but the tools are good IMHO.) I like their HDR tool (which you can easily use by taking three bracketed exposures, the correct one and typically ones at plus and minus two stops, allowing you to overcome the limited range of brightnesses cameras support in a single image) and think it is well worth installing.
I really like the Franzis Projects tools and some are quite excellent (their B+W converter is the best I know and Sharpen Projects is again excellent once you get away from its default attempt), so I always try to see if I can help people get over the initial learning curve. Note this is the Pro version and they gave the standard one away before. I wrote this for a previous HDR Projects 4 Giveaway and then edited it for a following one, so I'll just copy it here with a few updates in case it is of use to anyone. Or if you don't want to bother with all the HDR fuss, just take 2 photos and copy/paste parts of one into the other as needed. You could lock the exposure for the more dimly lit room for example, then take the picture pointing the camera at the window, and then a 2nd normal shot, still pointing at the window. one lighter, one darker, and one in the middle - while cheaper cameras may let you set & lock the exposure with the camera pointed at one place, letting you then point the camera somewhere else for the shot. Better standalone cameras let you bracket shots - automatically take more than one photo, e.g.
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That said, higher end phone cameras are as much, if not more about the software than the optics & sensor, and some can do arguably nice HDR without the hassle of taking 2 or more shots. dng file, an Adobe RAW format, which is a bit unique among HDR capable software. Photoshop/Lightroom let you save the combined photos as a. HDR is simply taking one photo at an exposure setting appropriate for the window, and a 2nd with the exposure tailored for the room, and then combining the two. A camera cannot - it can only capture a limited amount of dynamic range, light to dark, white to black. Your eyes work better than any camera - you can see in a room that has lots of light streaming through a window, and still see through the window. Photoshop & Lightroom do HDR itself better, as you'd expect, and make a sort of specialty of HDR panoramas, but you also might look for Aurora, which has seen older versions given away. HDR projects 4 Pro has been given away before, and it's not bad, although it's much more tailored to special FX than HDR.
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